The menu runs to greater length than at many Tijuana restaurants, although its selection of dishes is quite typical much of the variety owes to the many variations on themes (a profusion of grilled steaks, for example). The result at Capistrano Grill, as in most cases, is a largely unpopulated dining room that offers peace, quiet and the virtually undivided attention of a large and enthusiastic staff. Just why Tijuana restaurateurs go in for such huge establishments always seems a mystery to San Diego guests, who tend to arrive between 7 and 8 p.m., hours during which few Tijuanans are likely to be found at the table. The vast white building looks rather like an ocean-going vessel, its prow picking out a passage among the sizable apartment blocks that loom above it on several sides. One of the Zona Rio’s newer restaurants, the Capistrano Grill, occupies an almost monumental structure in a mixed commercial and residential neighborhood just a few blocks from the international border. The menus by and large resemble one another from place to place, but each restaurant offers at least a few house specialties, and most seem to take pride in their products. At most of the establishments, dinners progress at a stately pace, without the faintest hint of hurry, and servers never, ever feel the need to identify themselves or otherwise intrude upon their guests’ privacy.
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